INTRODUCTION

 

Welcome to the Ultra BOND professional windshield repair technicians long crack training manual! We appreciate that you chose us to assist you in achieving your goal to be a successful windshield repair technician. If you have any questions or concerns, call us, we will do all we can to help you.

 

We recommend you watch the DVD or video before and after reading this manual and go to www.windshieldrepairtools.com and learn the name of each tool and resin in your kit.

 

As you get out into the field and become familiar with your equipment and our repair techniques, you will see how easy it is to repair cracked windshields.

 

This repair manual is designed to provide you with the instructions you need to learn the basics of the art and science of glass repair. But remember, this is a hands-on business and the only way to become an expert is to do repairs. Read the instruction manual carefully, and be reassured that if you have any questions, Ultra BOND is here to help.

 

(800) 398-2663

8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Mon-Thurs; 8:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. Friday

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ULTRA BOND CRACKMASTER WINDSHIELD REPAIR KIT CHECK LIST

 

The following items should have been included in your windshield repair kit. If any item is missing please call us immediately.

 

1          Classic Crack Master

1          New Style Crack Master

1          Crack Opener

2          Deluxe Injectors with caps

1         Star Flexor

1          UV lamp

1          Probe

1          Mirror

1          Bullseye Tapper with needle

1          Tweezers

1          Screwdriver

1          Center Punch

2pks    Drill Bits (5 in ea. Pack)

1          Cylinder Cleaning Brush

1          Razor Blade Holder

1          O-ring case

1pk      Piston O-rings (12)

1pk      Cylinder O-rings (12)

1pk      2" film tabs (24)

1pk      3" film tabs (24)

1          Spray bottle

1          Cleaning jar

1          Cordless drill / charger/battery

1          Sunscreen

1          UV Glasses

1          Pit Polish

1 ea.   Resins: 20, 40, 60 STONE DAMAGE

45, 90 PRIMERS and POINT RESIN

200, 400, 1600, 2400, LONG CRACK RESINS

1          Plastic scrubby

1 ea.   Bolts: Opener, Assembly, Secondary, Leveling

1          Training Manual

1          Training Video/DVD

1          Technical Video

1          Polo Shirt

 

 

 

ITEMS YOU WILL NEED IN ADDITION TO YOUR KIT

 

1. Isopropyl (70%) alcohol - for cleaning your tools.

 

2. Petroleum jelly - (Vaseline) for lubricating suction cups.

 

3. Glass cleaner.

 

4. Cleaning rags.

 

5. Towel or mat for protection of the vehicle’s hood.

 

6. Penlight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

NOTICE

 

The only real way to learn about windshield repair is to ACTUALLY DO IT! You should be proficient and comfortable with our long crack methods after approximately 20 repairs.

 

You must practice INSIDE a garage. This will allow you time to develop your technique and skills before you work in the sun, which requires that you work quickly.

 

BEFORE you go out to repair for money, you must first practice, practice, practice. Your name and reputation depend on it. Here are a few ways you can get experience.

 

1. Find a junkyard that will allow you to work on windshields in the yard (this way they are still in the vehicle). Create your own, fresh breaks using your bullseye taper and center punch. The existing cracks may be too old and too dirty. To make an edge crack drill one inch from the edge of the windshield, half way through the out layer and tap a bullseye with the needle at a 45 degree angle. You can also use your probe and tap it with the handle of a screw driver. If you are unable to work in the yard, take an old windshield to practice on. The stress on a windshield out of the vehicle is much different than in the vehicle, but you will be able to get the feel of the tools, preparing, drilling and sliding.

 

2.  Sacrifice your own windshield.

 

3.  Purchase two or three pieces of laminated glass around 24" x 24". Practice drilling and tapping bullseyes on the glass sheets also.

 

4.   At some point you will have to start repairing real breaks on other people’s windshield. Start with neighbors, relatives or friends. Once you start with customers you do not have to charge if the repair does not turn out well.

 

You have to practice and you have to do the repairs. Watching may give you some tips but you cannot be confident in your repairs until you’ve done them.

 

Remember that like everything else windshield repair takes practice while learning, but you will make mistakes. A break will spread or you may break a drill bit (sometimes they stick in the glass). The spread can be fixed and the drill bit can remain in the glass if it is below the surface, it’s all in how cool you remain when it happens.

 

 

 

 

 

SAFETY WARNINGS

 

1. DO NOT LOOK AT THE ULTRA VIOLET LIGHT. It can burn the retina of your eyes. Wear 100% UV protective sun or safety glasses whenever you have it turned on and make sure the customer is not within it’s range.

 

2. AVOID GETTING RESIN ON YOUR SKIN. The resins contain an acid, which can cause blistering. Cleanliness is important. Do not allow the resin to drip down your injector. Wear protective polyethylene gloves and/or combine with a protective hand lotion. Wash your hands after each repair.

 

3. DO NOT GET RESIN ON PAINTED SURFACES. The acid will eat the paint. Make sure you have the customer’s vehicle well protected.

 

4. THIS PROCESS IS NOT FOR COMMERCIAL AIRCRAFT GLASS.

 

5. DO NOT PERFORM ANY REPAIR THAT MAY HINDER THE DRIVER’S LINE OF VISION.

 

6. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES for protection against loose glass and resin.

 

Material Safety Data Sheet is included at the end of this training manual.

 

 

RESIN

 

Shelf Life: 2 years at room temperature.

 

Choosing the proper resin for a particular job is a major part of the art and science of repair. Making the right choice will make the repair fast, easy and great looking. Choosing the wrong resin can cause trouble while doing the repair and deterioration down the road.

 

Resin Safety: We recommend that you wear goggles and gloves when using the resins. Gloves, because some people react to the acid content with continued use, especially in combination with the drying effects of the alcohol used to clean your tools. Ultra Bond carries glove and cotton inner liners. Use your safety goggles provided in your kit to protect you from small bits of glass, breaking drill bits, needles or resin.

 

Windshield Repair Resin Quality & Composition: The Ultra Bond windshield repair resins  are the finest in the business. They do contain a small amount of acid because it improves the chemical bonding process to the glass. Resins without acid will have a considerably lower adhesive strength, as will resins with any contaminant such as pigment used to tint.

 

CHOOSING A WINDSHIELD REPAIR RESIN:

 

The underlying basis for choosing windshield repair resin(s) is that you want to use the thickest resin possible, given the circumstances. The circumstances being: temperature and type of damage. Resin reacts to heat like syrup, when it is warmed, it thins, when it cools, it thickens. Temperature will greatly affect the resin you choose for a given damage. Acrylic resins wet the glass, not the PVB/lamination. Upon curing they lift back and off of the PVB, except for high viscosity. High Viscosity is more mechanical and stays in place upon curing. That is why you fill a crack with the thickest resin possible. If you get a runner, which is the resin separating from the PVB you used a resin too low in viscosity. On an Edge Crack there is over 1,000 psi of installation stress at the first four to five inches in from the edge. The ingredient that gives the resin its strength and durability also raises its viscosity so use our high viscosity edge resins at the edge when repairing an edge crack.

 

 

Note: If you see bulls-eyes or combination breaks looking only partially filled after a few months, the resin has shrunk and pulled away from the glass or laminate. The resin used for this repair was too thin. You will rarely see this on the legs of a star break because the space is so minute.

 

Low Viscosity RESINS:

 

Low viscosity (0-100cps) adhesives have three characteristics of concern to our repairs:

 

1. They shrink when they cure and lift off of the PVB.

 

2. They shrink and pull off of the PVB in inverse proportion to their viscosity., ie., the thinner the resin, the greater percentage of shrinkage; thin resins shrink more than thick resins;

 

3. These resins begin to cure immediately and completely cure in five (5) minutes in direct sunlight.

 

20 CPS: Our thinnest resin and is used for stars, star bursts, and small partial bullseyes. It can be used for all breaks on all stone damage on a cold windshield and is your best choice for star breaks. This resin will cause “flowering” on a hot windshield. This resin is also used to remove a “runner” which is a thin line of refraction that you may notice in a long crack. Stone damage resins are compatible; meaning you could start with one resin and change to another stone damage resin if necessary. After you have cured a long crack. 20 cps can also be used to remove any spots you notice in the crack.

 

40 CPS: Use for bullseye and combination breaks in warm weather. Use 40 cps on a star break if the windshield is hot. This resin is thicker than 20 cps.

 

60 CPS: Use for large combination damages or bullseyes and on hot windshields. It can also be used as a pit filler for the impact point and on plate glass repairs.

 

PIT FILLER: Use as a large-pit-adaptor and a pit-filler. The resin you used in the break can also be used to pit-fill and will often last longer because that resin has been sitting in the pit and has wet the pit and interacted with the glass and we recommend this method first. If it is not flush after curing and scraping use the pit filler.

 

 

TALKING TO THE CUSTOMER

About the repair

 

If you are talking to the customer on the phone, find out as much as possible about the break. How did it happen, what caused the break? How long is the crack? How old is the crack? Once you have determined it is repairable, tell the customer you can repair the crack, which will prevent it from spreading further, and it will remove the light refraction so that the damage will be barely visible. It will look a lot better, but it will NOT completely disappear. Remember you are providing a repair service, not a new windshield. Sell the benefits... prevention of further cracking, cost savings and safety.

 

 

PREPARING THE VEHICLE

 

1. Have the customer move the car into the shade, a garage is best, or behind a building. (Do not get into the habit of moving the customer’s car unless your liability insurance covers you for this). A tree is not true shade. If there is no shade, face the back of the car towards the sun and place a piece or cardboard on the roof of the car. This will shade the entire windshield.

 

2. Place a thick towel on the hood of the car and place your tool kit on the towel. The towel should drape down and cover anywhere you might lean against it. Watch out for your belt buckle.

 

3. Carefully wash the area of the windshield around the break. DO NOT SPRAY CLEANER into the break, it will contaminate the repair.

 

 

 

 

PREPARING YOUR TOOL

 

Piston                                                                                    Cylinder

 

 

1. With the resin you will be using for the repair lubricate the two o-rings on the bottom of the piston and twist the piston into the cylinder until the o-rings are on the smooth part of the cylinder chamber (which is when the threads are no longer showing).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2. Considering the length of the crack, place one drop per one-two inches into the cylinder, place the large o-ring on the bottom of the cylinder until the o-rings are on the smooth part of the cylinder chamber. The threads will not be showing.

 

 

 

 

3. Twist the injector into the holding structure, but do not go past the bottom.

 

 

4. Lubricate the suction cups of the bridge with a small dab of Vaseline.

 

5. Bring the resin up to the O-Ring so to remove all the air from the cylinder, until it touches the O-Ring. This will prevent the resin from spilling out when you turn it over to mount it.

 

6. Mount the Crack Master on the windshield and center the cylinder over the drill hole.

6. Twist the cylinder and the leveling screw in the back until the cylinder is flush against the windshield and the bridge is level. Leveling bolt should contact the glass first so the resin does not spill out of the cylinder. Raise the piston (counter clockwise or left) for vacuum and lower it (clockwise or right) for pressure.

 

 

LONG CRACK REPAR TOOLS

 

 


 

New Crack Master           Classic Crack Master         Crack Opener                            Injector

 

 

Long Crack Repair

 

Crack repair has been a part of the windshield repair industry since 1990 when Ultra Bond founder Richard Campfield figured it out. Crack Repair requires more skill, labor, chemicals and tools than the repair of a stone break but not near as much labor and skill as a replacement. You must be efficient at stone damage repair to understand this module. There is little to no difference in the skill to repair a short crack versus a long crack

 

The objective when repairing a crack is to completely fill the crack and break.

The repair should be clear when looking at its profile and there should be no lines or spots of refraction.

 

 

The major difference between repairing a crack versus a stone break where one tool is placed over the impact point and vacuum and pressure is applied, is with crack repair one tool is place at the point of the crack after it has been drilled and a bullseye tapped; another tool will be slid over the crack in order to inject the resin and another tool is placed on the inside to pry open the crack.

 

RESIN

 

The most important and critical component of crack repair is the resin and you must do your homework so that you know the resin’s properties and use the right resin(s) or it will not meet ROLAGS Section 11.4.3. You should know the fundamentals of adhesives because windshield repair is all about adhesives.

 

In a nutshell you repair a crack by: (1) drilling and tapping a bullseye at the point of the crack; (2) place a windshield repair tool over the drill hole, vacuum and then place in the pressure mode; (3) place a crack opener on the inside of the crack approximately two- three inches from the point where your tool is set up injecting resin and turn the bolt to apply pressure and open the crack; (4) prepare your crack tool and inject the crack by sliding it over the surface of the crack; (5) Cure the resin and clean the windshield. That is it in a nutshell. Now for the specifics.

 

There are two types of cracks, a floater crack and an edge crack. 90% of crack repairs will be an edge crack. The edge crack is also the easier of the two.

 

The Edge Crack

 

The reason 90% of cracks are edge cracks is because of (a) residual stress and (b) induced stress at the edge of the windshield. As with any adhesive application you must understand the stresses you are dealing with in order to obtain a proper bond. Residual or manufacturing stress is created during the annealing process and causes this area of the windshield to fracture 2.5 times easier than the rest or interior of the windshield. Induced or installation stress is created from gluing the windshield to the vehicle. This stress causes the fracture to crack almost immediately. It is cracking to relieve this stress and it will go 10-12 inches.

 

Residual Stress

 

Residual stress is created during the annealing or cooling process after the glass has been bent and molded and comes out of the oven. The level or magnitude of residual stress can be controlled by controlling the cooling rate through the annealing range to prevent molecules from being pulled apart by the varying rates of cooling occurring at the edge area. This phenomenon causes there to be a perimeter band on the part which is subject to residual tensile stress and is hence the weakest area of the windshield. Very quick cooling results in high stress levels while slow cooling reduces the levels and hence increases the time and cost to manufacture the windshield. A band of tension exists just in from the edge. This tensile stress will taper to zero usually 1.5 inches from the edge.  This area is called the ‘Weak Spot” by windshield manufacturer engineers. It is required by contract with the vehicle manufacturer that an OE  windshield not exceed tensile stress of 1000 psi and the edge compression be kept to 1500 psi minimum. One of the differences between an OE and an ARG is an ARG windshield has no contract limiting these stresses and these stresses can be two times higher in an ARG windshield.  OE’s are annealed slower which increases the manufacture time and subsequently the cost of the windshield. You should notice when you repair a crack if it is an OE or ARG and also know that the resin you are using can handle this stress without yielding and retain its strength after exposure.

 

Induced Stress

 

Induced stress comes from the installation and is also referred to as installation stress. This is the stress that causes the fracture in the weak spot to crack and is also why nine out of ten cracks will be over six-inches.  Because the windshield is being glued to the vehicle at its weakest area the residual stress is both increased in magnitude (200-1500 psi) and expands to about two inches in from the edge. You can feel the induced stress, which can be over 2,000 psi by knocking with your knuckle at the edge and go inward until you feel and hear it change. Usually four to five inches in. This is the stress your resin must deal with. This stress causes the fracture to split apart (outward or perpendicular to the crack) creating a gap. The stress upon cracking is relived for the time being and then the opposing lamination stress pulls the crack back together usually after is has cracked 10-12 inches and the crack stops. This is why an edge crack has a wide gap at the edge and at the point it has to be pried open to inject resin. So remember an edge crack has thousands of psi of stress and a gap at the edge and no stress and no gap at the point. The resin used at the edge area therefore needs to have the properties of a structural adhesive.

 

If the resin does not have the strength to hold the stress at the edge or it loses strength after exposure it will look like the diagrams below after a few months.

 

 

 

Working with different temperatures affects the resin and can call for alternative resin applications. This is why you need to know the fundamentals of adhesives and the properties of the resin you are using so you can adapt to the situation.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Repairing the Edge Crack

 

 

 

Equipment needed - Two repair tools and one crack opener.

 

The impact point of an edge crack will almost always be in the weak spot and is the variable that will determine your repair procedure and time. There are basically two situations with this variable and it is the type of impact you have.  It will be a: (a) pin head size chip or (b) star, bullseyes or combination break. Most of the time the impact will be the pinhead size chip and can be ignored. This edge Crack can be repaired in 15-30 minutes and is the easiest crack repair. Here are the steps:

 

A.   Edge Crack with a Chip Impact

 

  1. You can ignore this pin head size impact so start by drilling 1/8 of an inch in front of the point and tap a bullseye. You want the point of the crack to terminate into the bullseyes, which will happen when you tap the bullseye. If the crack runs through the bullseye you should drill and tap a bullseye again after you have finished and cured so you will want to be tedious with this step to avoid more work. Mount your tool with 45 or 90 cps, vacuum and pressure twice and leave in pressure mode.
  2. Mount your second tool, the Crack Master with one suction cup next to the tool at the point with medium resin (200-400cps), which is the one that will slide over the crack and inject the resin.
  3. Place a crack opener on the inside of the windshield perpendicular to the crack with the bolt on the crack approximately two-three inches from the point, turn the bolt and watch for the medium resin to start going into the crack, adjust the pressure as needed. Be careful with a hot windshield.
  4. Fill your third injector with an edge crack resin and inject from the edge to the middle until the thick resin stops going into the crack.
  5. Slide the injector over the crack starting from one end and going to where the edge crack resin stopped. Always observe the profile of the crack to watch the resin being injected. Note the resin(s) must not spot and cannot shrink upon curing.
  6. Release the crack opener pressure. Always remove the crack opener bolt from the glass before curing or you will alter the refractive index of the resin.
  7. Cure the resin, leaving the tool at the point in the pressure mode. The reason you cure under pressure is the resin at the point will shrink and curing under pressure will continually fill the void caused by the shrinkage, just like the repair of a stone break.
  8. Remove the tool at the point, pit fill and cure the drilled hole.
  9. Clean the windshield and you are done.

 

 

You must observe and examine the crack from its profile not the head-on angle.

 

 

 

 

 

B.       Edge Crack with a Break Impact, i.e. Star, Bullseye, Combination break, etc

 

 

You CANNOT ignore this impact. Your steps will be the same as above until you come to the impact point with your sliding injector. You will be separating and sealing it so you can repair it just like any other stone break using vacuum and pressure. If you do not seal it you cannot use vacuum and therefore cannot get a complete fill without drilling multiple times. Repair time for this repair is 30-45 minutes

 

1.        Start by drilling 1/8 of an inch in front of the point and tap a bullseye. You want the point of the crack to terminate into the bullseyes, which will happen when you tap the bullseye. If the crack runs through the bullseye you should drill and tap a bullseye again after you have done and cured the rest of the crack so you will want to be tedious with this step to avoid more work. Place your Classic Crackmaster (the one with two suction cups) over the drilled hole using 45 or 90 cps resin

2.        Place a crack opener on the inside of the windshield perpendicular to the crack with the bolt on the crack approximately two-three inches from the point; turn the bolt to adjust the needed pressure to inject the resin.

3.        Prepare your second tool which is the one that will slide over the crack and inject resin. Observe from the crack’s profile the resin going into the crack. Slide the injector over the crack starting from one end and going to the other BUT you must go around the impact point and you cannot let any resin bleed into the bullseye of the break because you are going to separate and seal this area and repair it separately after curing the crack. The 2400 and 1600 resin is best for this purpose.

4.        Release the crack opener pressure. Always remove the crack opener bolt from the glass before tabbing and curing or you will alter the refractive index of the resin.

5.        Place a bead of resin and Mylar over the entire crack using 2400 over the entire impact break area. Cover the entire impact break with a resin thick enough so that it does not bleed into the break from the impact point.

6.        Cure the resin, leaving the tool at the point in the pressure mode. The reason you cure under pressure is this resin will shrink and curing under pressure will continually fill the void caused by the shrinkage, just like the repair of a stone break.

7.        Remove the tool at the point, pit fill and cure the drilled hole.

  1. Now you have to repair the impact break. Leave the cured resin over the entire break area and at least ˝ inch of both sides so that it is sealed.  Because you have sealed it you can now repair just like any stone break repair. Drill through the resin into the impact point. Place your repair tool over the drilled hole and repair using vacuum and pressure. Cure under pressure. Then pit fill the drilled hole and cure again. Note: All you have done here is turned the impact into a normal stone damage repair by separating and sealing it.
  2. Clean the windshield and you are done.

 

Edge Crack Repair with One Repair Tool and One Crack Opener.

 

This is called the two-step method.

 

1.        Place crack opener three inches from the point.

2.        Start injecting at the edge with an edge crack resin (1600) then switch to a medium resin when the edge crack resin stops injecting and slide to the point.  Stop approximately one inch from the point or where the resin stops flowing. Stop clean meaning the resin at where you stop is straight vertically and not bleeding toward the point.

3.        Release the crack opener pressure. Always remove the crack opener bolt from the glass before curing or you will alter the refractive index of the resin.

4.        Cure the injected section of the crack which will be approximately 95% of the crack.

5.        Go back and repair the point; drill and tap a bullseye and repair just like you would a normal stone break using vacuum and pressure. Cure under pressure, remove tool and pit fill drilled hole.

6.        Clean up and you are done.

 

 

 

The Floater Crack

 

The floater crack is a stone break that was ignored and cracked from temperature change, usually by the defroster, heat, cold or a car wash. This crack is pure negligence by the vehicle owner who should have had the stone break repaired. This crack does not run to the edge and is why it is called a floater crack because it is floating in the interior of the windshield and is usually horizontal. This is the most difficult and time consuming crack repair. The steps do not have to be followed in order either and can depend on how many tools you have. In fact you may alter the steps after examining the crack and impact point. This crack does not have a gap like an edge crack nor the stress. It is tight and has two points and an impact break, which means you are not only going to repair the crack but have three stone break procedures to perform plus the crack. The impact is almost always a star, bullseye or combination break. This repair can take 45-60 minutes.

 

One Repair Tool and One Crack Opener

 

1.          Drill and tap a bullseye at the points. Place a tool at the point; vacuum and pressure.

2.          Place a crack opener approximately 2-3 inches from the point. Prepare and mount your sliding injector tool and slide along the crack.

3.          Go around the impact break and do not let any resin seep into the break’s bullseye.

4.          If you have only one injector you will need to stop when the resin stops injecting near the other point. Cover the entire break area with a resin that does not seep into the break through the impact point, then cure. Do not scrape off

5.          You now have the original break separated and sealed, so that it is repaired just like a normal stone break using vacuum and pressure. Drill through the resin into the impact point, repair and cure.

6.          Repair the other point just like a stone break and cure.

7.          Scrape off, clean up and you are done.

 

Two Repair Tools and Two Crack Openers

 

1.      Drill and tap a bullseye at the points. Place a tool at the points; vacuum and pressure.

2.      Place a crack opener approximately 2-3 inches from each of the points and adjust the pressure bolt.

3.      Prepare and start sliding your injector tool along the crack.

4.      Go around the impact break and do not let any resin seep into the break’s bullseye.

5.      Cover the entire break area with a resin that does not seep into the break through the impact point, then cure. Do not scrape off.

6.      You now have the original break separated and sealed, so that it is repaired just like a normal stone break using vacuum and pressure. Drill through the resin into the impact point, repair and cure.

7.      Scrape off, clean up and you are done.

 

You now have the basic instructions to repair a cracked windshield. You should investigate the tools and resins on the market and offer crack repair in your windshield business so that the consumer is given the facts and the freedom of choice.

 

 

 

LONG CRACK REPAIR PATENT #5,116,441

 

 


CRACK

 

 

POINT                                                                                                                        EDGE

 

 

RESIN = THIN AT THE POINT                                THICK IN THE REMIANDER/EDGE

 

 

Low Viscosity                                                         High Viscosity

PRIMER/POINT RESINS: 45-90 CPS                 EDGE RESINS:

1600-3800 CPS

 

Medium Viscosity -200-800

MIDDLE OF THE CRACK RESINS: 200-800 CPS

 

 

STONE DAMAGE/LOW VISCOSITY RESINS:

 

20 CPS: Is a thin, low viscosity resin. It can be used at the point of a crack when you are first beginning. This resin is also used to remove a “runner” (covered under Trouble Shooting). 20 cps can also be used to remove any spots you notice in the crack after you have cured it. If the crack has a star break, use the 20-cps to fill the star.

 

40 CPS” A point resin, slightly thicker than the 20 cps.

 

60 CPS: Point resin, especially good if your climate has very cold winters.

 

* The above resins are classified as stone damage resins and are compatible with each other, but not with the following resins:

 

PRIMERS/POINT RESINS: Primers are thin enough to inject into the entire crack, filling in all small crevasses. The remainder of the crack is then re-injected with a crack resin. All primers and long crack resins are compatible.

 

45 CPS (PRIMER-POINT) Is used as a point resin or primer for any long crack. It is compatible with any long crack resin. You should always use a primer when the glass is cold. You can also use this as a stone damage resin for a viscosity in between 40 and 60, however it is not compatible with 20, 40, or 60 cps.

 

90 CPS (PRIMER POINT) Point resin, primer, and can be used in the middle sections of a crack, a floater crack, or for a stone damage repair on a hot windshield.

 

*Primers are compatible with each other and with long crack resins. They are not compatible with the stone damage resins.

 

LONG CRACK RESINS:

 

200 CPS: For use in the middle of an edge crack and for a floater crack. Use above 40 degrees

 

400 CPS: For use in the middle of an edge crack and for a floater crack. Use above 40 degrees.

 

800 CPS: For use in the middle or edge section of the crack. Use for temperatures 50 degrees or above.

 

1600 CPS: (#1 selling resin) In climates with cold winters, should be used whenever possible. Can be used for middle and should be used for the edge area of an edge crack. Works best at 70 degrees and above. If used below room temperature, it will need to be warmed or it will not wet the glass well. If you cannot warm the glass then the edge area (4-5 inches from the edge) should be primed with the 45 resin.

 

2400 CPS: For use in the edge section of a crack at 90 degrees and above. Should  prime the area first with 45 cps when it is below 90 degrees.

 

 

*Long crack resins are all compatible with each other and with the primers. They are not compatible with the stone damage resins.

 

HELPFUL HINTS

 

Compatibility means they can be mixed in the cylinder or injected on top of, or next to, one another. Once a resin is cured, any other resin can be injected or placed next to it.

 

Heating crack resins or the windshield before or after the resins are injected and tabbed when below room temperature will increase the bond to the glass.

 

Injecting a primer into the entire rack and then re-injecting a crack resin in the edge/remainder will increase the bond to the glass by improved wetting. *See priming method.

 

1600 AND 2400 cps must be used at or above room temperature or they must be heated.

 

ALLOW TIME FOR INTERACTION: Allow time for the resin to interact with the glass. The higher viscosity crack resins you use, the more time this takes. After tabbing, wait 5 minutes before curing. Also, using methods that start with an injector at the edge will allow the interaction time required while doing the repair since these methods can take up to 20 minutes.

 

CRACK CLEANING: If possible, clean out all cracks before repairing if they are more than a few weeks old; have been through a car wash or had windshield washer fluid sprayed. Using X-Phobic   fill your injector and inject the fluid into the crack. Allow chemical fluid to evaporate.



 

 

Talk to the Customer:

 

Explain the procedure of the repair, making sure they understand that the repair will not completely disappear. The appearance will improve, the repair will not crack further and it will save them money. Many insurance companies are paying for the repair (discussed further in newsletters) get information as needed.

 

Always find out how old the crack is - how long has it been on the windshield.

 

If the crack is more than 10" in length and has been there for more than 2 months, there is a good possibility that there will be some dirt in the crack that may show up in the repair. Clean the crack (refer to Helpful Hints) and use the priming method, but be sure to pass this information on to the customer.

 

 

Preparing the Vehicle:

 

1. Mobile: Have the customer move the vehicle into the shade. It is a bad habit to get into moving the car unless your liability insurance covers this for you. Remember you need “true” shade. If none is available use cardboard or Artist’s board to shadow the windshield. Be sure the board is secured with something heavy, but soft.

 

2. Place a thick towel on the hood of the vehicle and place your tool kit on the towel to protect the car’s paint from the resin, and anything on your clothing that may scratch the car.

 

3. Wash the area of the windshield around the crack. DO NOT SPRAY CLEANER INTO THE BREAK; IT WILL CONTAMINATE THE REPAIR.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Prepare your Crackmaster

 

1.  Insert your leveling bolt.

 

2. Lubricate the two o-rings on the piston. Insert the piston into the cylinder until the small o-rings reach the smooth chamber inside the cylinder. You can feel it.

 

3. Fill the cylinder with resin. A good calculation is 1 drop per inch minus 2 drops. (Example 10" crack = 10 - 2 =8 drops).

 

4. Lubricate the suction cups with Vaseline. The longer the crack, the more Vaseline you should use to allow sliding down its entire length.

 

5. Begin your repair using the best technique for the type of crack.

 

CRACK REPAIR TECHNIQUES

 

Objective: Completely fill the crack, preventing it from spreading any further, while achieving the best possible appearance.

 

Failures: Generally two types of failures occur with repairs:

 

1) Cohesive failure: The resin splits and is stuck to the walls or sides of the crack.

The appearance is spotty.

2: Adhesive failure: The resin pulls away from the side(s) or the crack. This type of failure looks as if it had never been repaired before and it can be re-repaired.

 

The use of our crack resins has eliminated cohesive failures when combined with a good technique. Normally adhesive failures occur in the winter months. The glass becomes cool during a repair even when using a 1600, 2400 or 3800 cps and the viscosity of these resins rise, preventing a good wet of the glass. During this season, we recommend the priming method. Randomly check your crack repairs at 3 months, 6 months, 1 year and 2 years to see if you are noticing a cohesive or adhesive failure. If you are, a change in viscosity or method will eliminate the problems. It also lets your customer know you care about he work you did for the long term.

 

 

Film Tabs: The following methods of crack repair will require you to know how to use “Film Tabs”. When told to do so, generously run resin (a long crack resin) along the area of the crack that has been injected with resin and place the tabs over it, butting them up against each other. There should be no bubbles or places not covered by the resin and tabs.

 

Methods: Two methods are the “Meet in the Middle” and the “Priming” method. However, the method you use becomes a matter of preference. We teach the “Flex & Slide” first because you have to know how to use your crack opener as described in this method and in some of the others.

 

THE CRACK OPENER:

 

The Crack Opener is used on the windshield on the inside of the vehicle to pry open the crack. Lubricate the suction cups and mount to the glass so the bolt is right on the crack about 1/4" in front on where the cylinder is sitting. Slowly begin to tighten the bolt of the Crack Opener against the crack. You will begin to see the resin start to flow. Stop tightening when this occurs.

 

 

METHOD  FOR REPAIRING CRACKS OFF THE EDGE

 

This technique allows you to inject the thickest resin in the majority of the crack. For this procedure you will need: 2 injectors, Classic Crackmaster, a Secondary or New Style Crackmaster and the Crack Opener; OR 2 injectors, 2 New Style Crackmasters and the Crack Opener.

 

 

 

1. Drill and tap a bullseye at the point. Mount the Classic Crackmaster with your injector filled with the 90cps or 200cps resin at the point.

2.  Mount either your Secondary or New Style at the edge with your injector filled with a crack resin (1600 or 2400) appropriate for type of crack and temperature.

 

3. Use the vacuum and pressure process at the bullseye at the point. Now, beginning at the point, flex and slide down the crack until the flexing is no longer needed. This will be when the resin starts to flow easily and faster.  When using the Classic Crackmaster, straddle the crack.

 

3. With the tool and injector mounted at the Edge, slide in toward your other tool that is somewhere in the middle, completing the fill.

 

4. Remove tools. Tab and cure.

 

*METHODS THAT START AT THE EDGE best follow the rule of thumb that the thickest resin possible should be used. When the resin stops flowing, switch to a lower viscosity resin.

 

 

THE PRIMING METHOD

 

Priming a crack maximizes the adhesive bond to the glass. There are two general types of repair failures:

1. Cohesive failure: The resin splits and sticks to the sides or walls of the crack. The appearance is spotty.

2. Adhesive failure: The resin pulls away from the side(s) of the crack. This type of failure will look as if the crack has never been repaired, and it can be re-repaired.

 

Using our crack resins eliminate cohesive failures.

 

Inject the edge area of the crack using a primer (45 cps for a cold windshield and 90 cps for a hot windshield). Re-inject the remainder/edge section with a crack resin. Working from the middle toward the edge will push the primer out of the gap better than working from the edge to the point.

 

METHODS FOR REPAIRING SPECIFIC CRACKS (UNSURFACED, “Y” CRACK, CRACK OFF STAR BULLSEYE)

 

Un-surfaced Crack: Repair using vacuum and pressure.

 

This is the hardest crack to repair and will take the longest amount of time. The un-surfaced crack does not begin or end at an edge of the glass and is therefore also called a “floater”. You will need your Classic CrackMaster and New Style Crackmaster (or secondary).

 

1. Drill a hole at one of the points and tap a bullseye.

 

2. Prepare your Classic and fill the bullseye with a low viscosity resin (45-100cps) leaving the injector on pressure.

 

3. Drill another hole 3-4" down the crack, tap a bullseye and mount your New Style Crack Master and injector also filled with a low viscosity resin (about 4 drops) and leave it on vacuum.

 

This is creating a pushing and pulling action between the two injectors.

 

4. When the resin from the 1st Crack Master (Classic) has reached the 2nd CrackMaster switch the 2nd CrackMaster injector to pressure.

 

5. Remove the 1st Crackmaster. Drill another hole 3"-6" down from the 2nd injector and repeat steps 3, 4 and 5.

 

6. When completely filled, tab and cure. * A 12" crack would require 3 drill holes.

 

 

 

THE “Y” CRACK

 

 

The “Y” Crack may look like a scary repair, but once you think about it as two separate cracks, it becomes quite simple. The “Y” crack off the side or horizontal can be repaired using any repair method. You will repair the bottom crack first stopping when it hits the joining crack and repairing the top section last. If you did the top portion first, you are taking the chance of getting resin into the bottom crack and preventing repair, or making it difficult.

 

 

1. Repair the bottom crack first using any method and a low viscosity resin and switching to a medium viscosity. Stop at the apex or joint of the crack. Tab and cure.

2. Repair the top crack as you would a normal single edge crack starting with a low viscosity at the point, switching to a medium, or high or both, depending on temperature. Tab and cure.

 

If the “Y” Crack is off the bottom, the 2 step works best.

 

 

 

CRACK OFF A STAR OR BULLSEYE

 

What makes this repair difficult is filling the star or bullseye because you are unable to create a vacuum because the crack has surfaced. Therefore, these instructions focus on filling the star or bullseye. Separating the break as previously instructed above is the best method. Here are some more methods.

 

1. If it is a small bullsys roll a drop of 45 cps into the impact point, it will fill by capillary action while you are working on the rest of the crack.

 

OR

 

2. After step 1, take your injector and fill it with 1600 or 2400 cps and place in the structure. Mount it on the impact point on pressure and let it slowly fill. If the star does not fill, take your probe and flex on each leg of the star that is not filling. Manually pressure pushing and probe flexing simultaneously is fast and works well.

 

OR

 

3. Refill the injector with 1600-2400 cps and place on impact point in the pressure mode without the structure. Manual pressure  push the resin which should push the low viscosity to the tips of the legs.

 

IF

 

4. By chance all of the legs of the star still do not fill, continue repair of the long crack and cure. Return back to the legs or areas of the star that did not fill and drill and tap a bullseye. Vacuum and pressure fill. Cure under pressure. Pit fill the drill hole, cure and clean up

 

 

REPAIR TECHNIQUE FOR THE ADVANCED TECHNICIAN:

“INJECTOR SLIDE”

 

The “Injector Slide” does not use the CrackMaster to hold the injector. Instead, hold the injector in your hand and slide it along the length of the crack as you inject the resin. This technique can only be used when your eye has been trained to see if the crack is open wide enough to allow the resin to enter and completely fill.

 

 

WINTER TIME REPAIRS

 

Wintertime makes long crack repair a delicate operation and because the cracks are surfaced, your resin will be exposed to the atmosphere. Resin will flow in to the crevices of the crack most effectively and bond to the glass when at room temperature and above. If the resin gets cold it will not flow into the crevices or bond to the glass as well. If you must be outside, try to heat the injected and tabbed crack before curing. This will help, but best results are obtained indoors during the cold winter months. Use the Priming method. The Primers flow into the little nooks and crannies while the thick resin adds the cohesive strength.

 

 

RULES OF THUMB

 

1. Always fill the crack with the thickest possible resin according to the temperature (check bottle labels).

 

2. If mobile, you MUST use true shade.

 

3. Take extra care on a hot windshield, it is sensitive and damage spreads easily.

 

4. IF you have more than one crack or break, work from the bottom up, otherwise resin could drip from the first repair into the second damage curing before you can repair it and blocking an easy flow of resin.

 

5. Warm a cold windshield slowly with the defroster bringing it to a warm temperature.

 

6. If you need to flex on a cold windshield, do the point first. Drill a hole at the point and fill about ˝" of the crack and cure. Turn on the defroster and warm up the windshield. DO the remainder. This will help prevent the crack from spreading when you flex the glass.

 

7. When going form the Point towards the Edge, allow the resin to set before curing.

 

TROUBLE SHOOTING

 

Writing down resin information as well as weather conditions on all your invoices will assist you in problem solving. Write down any other problems you noticed or were informed about (recently washed or waxed).

 

1. Refraction line:

There is one problem that commonly occurs in crack repair. “The Runner”. This is a thin line of refraction that appears along the bottom of the crack against the lamination after the repair is complete. This is generally caused by using a resin too low in viscosity that has shrunk during the curing process and pulls away from the laminate. The “pulling away” occurs rapidly, therefore called the “runner”. TO REPAIR: Drill into the middle of the runner, tap a bullseye, vacuum/pressure fill with 20 cps. Cure under pressure 5-7 minutes, Fill the pit, cure and clean up.

 

2. Refraction near point:

Too much pressure with the Crackmaster at the point. Too much pressure can push the crack closed and out of its natural position. The same thing will happen if you forget to remove your Crack Opener before curing.

 

3. Crack Failure:

a) Dirt or moisture in the crack when it was repaired will reduce the bond and the crack will fail. Clean out cracks before you repair.

b) Resin that is cold when it is injected into the crack results in poor wetting (filling of crevices) and compromises the bond. You have better control of the temperature if doing repairs inside. Change resin combinations. Try the Priming method. Heat the crack before curing. Keep the resins at room temperature, in a cooler (no ice) during the summer and try a pocket or hand warmer for the winter.

c) The wrong resin was used in the remainder/edge. 1600 or 3800 cps works best. Change resin combinations. Try using 3800 in at least 1" of the edge. Try the Meet in the Middle method or start repairs at edge and work towards the point.

d) Resin has been through too many changes. Temperatures can be better controlled if indoors if possible. Store at room temperature, in a cooler in the summer and try a pocket warmer in the winter.

e) Too much stress on the edge. Drill and tapping a bullseye at the edge by the molding may relieve some of the stress and it will fill easily with 3800 cps.

f) Solvents were in the crack. Ask the customer if Rain-X or a similar product was used, or if the car had been recently waxed. Try cleaning all cracks with Crack Cleaning Fluid prior to repair. This may be the only type of failure that cannot be fixed.

 

EQUIPMENT CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE

 

Piston & Cylinder:

 

The piston and cylinder should be washed in rubber (70%) alcohol at the end of every day. You do not need to clean after each job. If resin has begun to cure or is sticking to the piston or cylinder, they should soak in alcohol for at least 1 hour.

 

Use your cleaning brush provided in your kit to scrub out the inside of the cylinder. Make sure there is no alcohol on the equipment before you begin a repair because the alcohol will contaminate the resin. Alcohol is the solvent to your resin. If resin spills on the customer’s paint (which it shouldn’t because you have it covered well with a large towel) DO NOT use alcohol, try a little window cleaner. The resin will remove the paint and alcohol will remove wax.

 

O-Rings:

 

Dip them in alcohol and take them out immediately. DO NOT SOAK. O-rings will swell and will not fit properly.

 

Film Taps:

 

Film tabs can be re-used. Let them sit in your cleaning jar with alcohol and remove at the end of the day. They can be used quite a few times.

 

Battery:

 

            Charge at least once a week.

 

Tool Box and Other Tools:

Clean the inside and outside of your toolbox and other tools regularly. This makes an impression on the customer as well as your own appearance.